Buenos Aires
Tango, steak, and late nights
What it actually costs
When to go
Extreme heat (38°C+), high humidity, and the city empties — porteños escape to the coast.
Recoleta Cemetery: go at opening (9am) with a map of famous graves. After 11am tour groups dominate. La Boca: only visit Caminito (the painted street) — don't wander beyond it.
What locals know
Steak: Don Julio (Palermo) has the 2-hour queue for a reason. For no queue, try La Carniceria or El Pobre Luis.
Blue dollar rate: exchange USD cash at "cuevas" (informal exchange houses on Florida Street) for 20-40% more than banks. This is normal and widespread.
Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood for nightlife — nothing starts before midnight. Dinner at 10pm, bars at midnight, clubs at 2am.
Free tango shows in San Telmo on Sundays (Plaza Dorrego market + outdoor milonga). Better than expensive tourist tanguerias.
Honest warnings
Inflation means prices change constantly. Cash in USD is more useful than pesos in many situations.
Petty theft: common in tourist areas (La Boca, Retiro station, crowded buses). Keep valuables hidden.
La Boca beyond Caminito is genuinely unsafe — do not wander into residential streets.
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