What it actually costs
When to go
Rainy season — trails to Machu Picchu are muddy/closed (Inca Trail closes Feb entirely). Landslides disrupt trains.
Machu Picchu: book 3+ months ahead. First entry slot (6am) for sunrise with fewer people. Afternoon slot has best light for photos.
What locals know
Altitude (3,400m): spend 2 days in Cusco acclimatising BEFORE Machu Picchu. Coca tea helps. Don't drink alcohol day 1.
San Pedro Market for cheap lunch (S/5-8 for a full menu including soup, main, and juice).
Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca) is a 1-day trip from Cusco. Beautiful but brutal at 5,200m altitude. Only attempt after 3+ days of acclimatisation.
Sacsayhuaman fortress (free on Boleto Turistico) is more impressive than some Machu Picchu buildings — and it's a 15-min walk from Plaza de Armas.
Honest warnings
Altitude sickness is real and dangerous. Headache, nausea, breathlessness are normal day 1. Severe symptoms = descend immediately.
Machu Picchu scams: only buy train tickets from PeruRail or Inca Rail official sites. Buses from Aguas Calientes are the only way up.
Taxis have no meters. Agree price before getting in. Within Cusco centre should be S/5-10.
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