What it actually costs
When to go
Dark by 3:30pm, cold, wind chill makes it feel -5°C. August is Festival month — incredible but accommodation triples.
Edinburgh Castle: pre-book online. Arthur's Seat: go at sunrise (5am summer) for solitude and golden light.
What locals know
Climb Arthur's Seat (251m) — the dormant volcano in the city centre. 45 mins up, panoramic views, free.
Victoria Street (the Diagon Alley inspiration) is pretty but brief. Grassmarket below it has better pubs and food.
The Royal Mile is tourist-heavy. Close/wynd alleys leading off it hide the real character — explore them randomly.
Dead of Night bar (below George IV Bridge) is a hidden cocktail bar — no sign, ring the doorbell.
Honest warnings
Wind is constant and brutal. Carry layers even in summer. Rain is horizontal.
August Festival: absolutely brilliant but book accommodation 3-6 months ahead. Prices 3-4x normal.
Tipping: 10% at restaurants. Pubs: no tip expected for drinks at the bar.
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