What it actually costs
When to go
Atlantic storms batter the west coast. Wind, rain, short days. But fewer tourists and pubs are cosier.
Cliffs of Moher (1.5hr drive): go for opening (9am) or late afternoon (5pm). Tour buses dominate 11am-3pm.
What locals know
Galway is tiny — walk everywhere. The Latin Quarter and Shop Street are the heart. Live music spills from every pub after 9pm.
Salthill Promenade walk (2km along the coast) ending at Blackrock diving tower — locals jump in year-round.
Aran Islands (Inis Mor): ferry from Rossaveal (40 min). Rent a bike and ride to Dun Aonghasa — a stone fort on 100m cliffs.
McDonagh's (chip shop) and Kai (upscale) are the two essential restaurants — one for £8 fish & chips, one for £30 tasting menu.
Honest warnings
Wild Atlantic Way driving: roads are narrow, sheep appear randomly, and tourists stop in the middle of the road for photos.
Galway floods during extreme rain. Check weather before Connemara/Burren day trips.
Accommodation during races week (July/August) and arts festival: book months ahead.
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