Hanoi
Old quarter charm and pho for breakfast
What it actually costs
When to go
Hot (38°C+) and monsoon rains. Flooding in Old Quarter is common in July-August.
Hoan Kiem Lake at 6am for tai chi locals. Old Quarter night market is Friday-Sunday only.
What locals know
Pho for breakfast at Pho Thin (13 Lo Duc) — the egg-stirred broth version is legendary. 30,000 VND ($1.20).
Bia hoi (fresh draft beer) costs 5,000-10,000 VND ($0.20-0.40) per glass at street corners. It is brewed daily.
Egg coffee at Giang Cafe (the original) — a meringue-like coffee custard you drink with a spoon.
Train Street is banned for tourists now but the cafes on parallel streets still have the vibe.
Honest warnings
Crossing the road: just walk steadily, don't stop or run. Scooters flow around you.
Grab is essential. Taxi meters get "broken" with tourists. Always use the app.
Bia hoi corners shut at 10pm due to regulations. Nightlife is in Tay Ho or West Lake area.
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