What it actually costs
When to go
Hot (35°C+), extremely crowded, long queues at every major site. Spring and autumn are perfect.
Hagia Sophia: go at 8:30am opening or after 4pm. Blue Mosque: skip Fridays (prayer). Grand Bazaar: Tuesday-Wednesday is least crowded.
What locals know
Istanbul Kart (transit card) is essential — works on trams, ferries, buses, metro. Ferries across the Bosphorus cost ₺20 and are better than any paid cruise.
Karakoy and Kadikoy are where locals eat. Sultanahmet restaurants are 3x overpriced tourist traps.
Turkish breakfast (kahvalti) is an event — olives, cheese, eggs, honey, bread, tea. Budget 2 hours. Van Kahvalti Evi in Beyoglu is legendary.
The Asian side (Kadikoy) is where Istanbul actually lives. Take the ferry, eat at the fish market, walk the Moda coast.
Honest warnings
Carpet shop scams: anyone who 'invites you for tea' near tourist sites is running you into a high-pressure sales situation.
Taxi scams are legendary. Use BiTaksi app (GPS-tracked, metered). Never take a taxi that refuses the meter.
Bargaining in the Grand Bazaar: start at 40% of asking price. In shops with price tags, prices are fixed.
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