What it actually costs
When to go
Monsoon — relentless rain, landslides block roads, leeches on treks, mountains invisible behind clouds.
Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) at sunrise is spiritual and empty. After 9am: monkeys, tourists, and hawkers.
What locals know
Dal bhat (lentil soup + rice + sides) is the national meal. Eat it with your right hand like locals. Unlimited refills everywhere.
Thamel is the tourist ghetto — stay one night for convenience then move to Patan or Boudhanath for the real city.
Negotiate everything. Taxis, souvenirs, even some restaurants. Start at 50% of asking price.
Boudhanath Stupa at dusk: monks chanting, butter lamps lit, prayer wheels spinning. The most peaceful place in the city.
Honest warnings
Altitude: Kathmandu is 1,400m. If heading to higher elevations (Everest Base Camp, Annapurna), acclimatise properly.
Power cuts still happen. Hotels have generators but charge devices when you can.
Stomach issues are very common. Drink only bottled water. Avoid salads and ice in budget restaurants.
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