What it actually costs
When to go
Heatwaves (40°C+), wildfire smoke, and peak tourist season overlap. Beach crowds are intense.
Griffith Observatory: go for sunset but arrive 1 hour early for parking. Or hike up (45 min from bottom) and skip the car entirely.
What locals know
LA is a car city but the Metro is actually decent for tourist routes (Hollywood/Highland, Santa Monica, DTLA, Koreatown). Day pass $3.50.
Koreatown has the best food in the city — KBBQ at midnight, 24-hour karaoke, tofu soup at 2am. Better than any Hollywood restaurant.
The Getty Center is free (pay $20 parking only). World-class art + architecture + views + gardens.
Grand Central Market (DTLA) for breakfast/lunch — Eggslut, Tacos Tumbras a Tomas, Sticky Rice. All exceptional, all under $15.
Honest warnings
Traffic defines LA. Rush hour is 7-10am and 3-7pm. A 10-mile drive can take 90 minutes.
Hollywood Boulevard is genuinely disappointing — dirty, aggressive touts, and nothing to see. Go for 15 minutes, then leave.
Uber/Lyft are essential for nightlife unless you want to stay in one neighbourhood. Budget $30-50/night in rides.
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