What it actually costs
When to go
45°C+. The medina becomes an oven. Everything closes midday. Ramadan dates also affect opening hours and alcohol availability.
Jemaa el-Fna comes alive at sunset — that's when the food stalls, storytellers, and musicians appear. Daytime it is dead and hassle-heavy.
What locals know
Riads (traditional houses) are the only accommodation worth booking. A beautiful riad with breakfast is MAD 500-800/night ($50-80).
Get lost in the medina on purpose — that's the experience. But download offline maps. When truly stuck, any child will guide you out for MAD 10-20.
Hammam (traditional bathhouse): skip tourist hammams (overpriced). Ask your riad to recommend a local one (MAD 80-150 for a full scrub). It's transformative.
The tanneries are interesting but the 'guide' who takes you will pressure you to buy leather. Say no firmly or budget MAD 200-500 for something.
Honest warnings
Aggressive touts in the medina. 'No thank you' firmly and keep walking. Don't engage or make eye contact.
Agree taxi prices before getting in. Petit taxis within the medina should be MAD 20-40 max.
Don't eat at the Jemaa el-Fna food stalls with the most aggressive touts — the quieter stalls on the edges are safer and better.
Drink bottled water only. Mint tea and cooked food are safe.
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