What it actually costs
When to go
40°C heat, massive crowds, Romans have left. Everything is slower and more expensive.
Vatican at 7:30am opening is manageable. By 10am it is unbearable. Colosseum: book the underground tour — skips the main queue entirely.
What locals know
Coffee at the bar (standing) costs €1-1.50. Sitting at a table costs €4-6. Same espresso. Always stand.
Trastevere is the best neighbourhood for dinner. Cross the river, get lost, pick any trattoria with no English menu.
The Borghese Gallery requires advance booking — you cannot show up. Book 2+ weeks ahead.
Free water from nasoni (public fountains) all over the city. They're safe and the water is excellent.
Aperitivo hour (6-8pm) at most bars means free buffet food with your €8-12 drink. That can be dinner.
Honest warnings
Restaurants near the Colosseum and Vatican are almost universally bad and overpriced. Walk 10 minutes away.
Gladiator selfie guys at the Colosseum will demand €20+ after posing. Don't engage.
Taxis from Fiumicino airport have a flat rate to city centre (€50). If they don't use the meter or quote higher, they're scamming you.
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