What it actually costs
When to go
Same cruise ship issue as Dubrovnik but slightly less severe. Beaches are packed. Ferries sell out.
Diocletian's Palace is a living city — best explored early morning or evening when restaurants spill into Roman corridors.
What locals know
Split is the ferry hub to islands — Hvar (1-2hr), Brac (50min), Vis (2.5hr). Book ferries on Jadrolinija website.
Bacvice Beach has a shallow sandy area where locals play picigin (water polo/volleyball hybrid). Join in.
Marjan Hill park — hike or bike the forested peninsula for views over the city and islands. Starts 5 min walk from Old Town.
Riva (waterfront promenade) for morning coffee is THE local ritual. Any cafe, pick one with shade, people-watch.
Honest warnings
Ferry tickets to Hvar sell out in summer. Book online 2-3 days ahead, especially for cars.
Old Town restaurants on the Riva strip: 30% tourist markup. Walk 2 streets back for local prices.
Split is a transit city — many people only pass through. Give it 2 days minimum; it deserves its own time.
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