What it actually costs
When to go
Inter-monsoon period — rain across the whole island. The east and west coasts have opposite seasons, so you can always find dry weather somewhere.
Sigiriya Rock at 7am opening — the climb takes 1.5 hours and afternoon heat makes it brutal. Ella is busy Dec-March; quieter April-June.
What locals know
Train from Kandy to Ella is one of the world's most beautiful journeys. Book 2nd class (windows open) not 1st class (AC, sealed).
Rice and curry is the staple — look for places with 8+ dishes in the buffet for Rs 400-600. Each region has different styles.
Tuktuk from airport to Colombo should be Rs 3,000-4,000 max. Pre-book through PickMe app.
Unawatuna and Mirissa for beaches. Arugam Bay for surf. Ella for mountains. Divide your time.
Honest warnings
Road conditions are poor outside major routes. Budget twice the Google Maps time estimate for any bus journey.
Stray dogs are everywhere. Don't pet them (rabies risk). Keep distance especially at night.
Dress modestly at temples — cover shoulders and knees. White clothing at major Buddhist sites is appreciated.
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