What it actually costs
When to go
July-Aug: 35°C, canals smell, cruise ships dump crowds. November: acqua alta (flooding) — you wade through St Mark's Square.
San Marco before 8am is a different city — empty, echoing, magical. By 10am it is a theme park.
What locals know
Cicchetti (Venetian tapas) at bacari (local bars) — €1-3 per piece, standing at the counter with a €2 glass of wine. Cantina Do Spade and All'Arco are the best.
Get lost deliberately. Venice rewards wandering. The best things happen in streets with no tourists.
Vaporetto line 1 is the Grand Canal "bus" — €7.50 single or €25 for 24hr pass. The front seats are the best free sightseeing in the city.
Burano (colourful fisherman island) and Torcello (ancient, empty) are both worth the 40-min vaporetto ride.
Honest warnings
Venice is expensive for EVERYTHING. Budget €5-8 for a coffee if you sit down at St Mark's Square.
Gondola rides are €80 (standard 25 min). Negotiate before boarding. After 7pm it's €100. Non-negotiable.
Tourist tax applies (€3-10/day depending on season). You'll pay it at your hotel.
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